Following The Cows Home

Final Leg of the Alpabzug

So I last left off with us walking the back roads of Canton Appenzell with our milking producing friends and their colorfully dressed herdsmen. As we rounded each hill in the valley we approached closer and closer to the final winter pasture for the herd.


It is not uncommon to find small mountain restaurants along such roads. The cozy little two story buildings are often in the middle of nowhere, and seem to only attract the locals because frankly, there is no one else around.

As the herdsmen would pass such a restaurant the local inn keeper would run out with glasses of what looked like wine. The reward for the long days journey which can often start at 3:00 am. They had the opportunity to drink the liquid refreshment as quickly as possible in the middle of the street and keep moving with the heard, shoving the glasses greatfully back at the inn keeper while still maintaining and heir of importance.

Final, we reached the pasture. The two prized leading cows were released from the burden of their massive bells and the herd wandered on to the grassy hillside to rest and enjoy a bit of fresh grass.

The herdsmen gathered by the gate. One of them holding the massive bells, on hanging from each forearm. The herdsman slowly rocking the bells to continue the gentle tolling of the bells. This feat of strength continued as the others performed a private yodeling concert for the 8 to 10 family members and neighbors that welcomed them home. The quartet continued for about 15 minutes before calling in quits and having their first chance to rest all day.

What a really interesting cultural experience. We could have never planned it, and just were in the right place at the right time. How lucky we were.

Alpabzug: It's All About The Order

This photo was a complete accident. As we were hiking through the valley after a day at the Alpabzug in Urnaesh I heard what I thought was yodeling. Looking up the side of the valley, I saw a procession of farmers in the country side about 3oo meters up the side of the valley. I urged my wife 'Come on, if we run we can catch them, it will make a great photo!'

As the photo proves after a good sprint caring about 15 pounds of camera gear we caught the merry band of locals just in time. What was amazing is that in the countryside, far from the village the group continued with their traditions. Yodeling in full traditional regalia, these men were not interested in putting on a show, there was no one to impress out here. They were interested only in ensuring that the tradition lived on.

So what is that tradition? As far as I can tell it is something like a formal procession. The group starts with a young boy leading the pack. Just behind a small heard of goats sheparded by the families young children.

Behind the goats is what I'll call the bell cow, or cows. These cows carry the massive bell or bells that as best I can tell are a becon for the other cows to follow. All other bells on the other cows are either removed, or stuffed with grass to silence them.

Behind the bell cow are four men, yodeling, with at least one carrying a wooden milk bucket over his left shoulder. The bottom of the bucket is beautifully painted with an alpine scene.

Following the yodelers are the rest of plodding, dirty, tired cows. The rest of the bunch are hearded by one, unlucky teenaged boy, who tends to look slighlty younger than the four yodelers. This young lad as the undesierable job to proding, slapping, and poking the cows along while wadding through piles of excrement and streams of urine. It is surely not a pleasant position to be in but I imagine he is the sole reason the group of cows get home. With every patch of grass one cow seems to wander over to grab a snack and the teen has to jump into action to keep them moving.

In the rear and not shown in the picture above is the final element of the procession. A horse drawn carriage. The carriage is caring the families wooden cheese molds, copper pots or as best I can tell anything else used in the cheese making process. This carriage is usually driven by the elder man of the family. I would imagine he deserves this position as it affords him a bit of rest at times when he wants to ride in the wagon. I'm sure he has earned the spot after years of particpating in the grueling hike.

So now that you know the who's who of the participants the only remaining question is where are they going?

Check back and you'll get the answer when I tell you about our unplanned side trip as we literally joined in to walk the cows home.

Back Roads of Canton Appenzell

Back Roads of Canton Appenzell

On Saturday we spent a lot of time wandering around the back roads of Canton Appenzell taking in the sights. The Appenzell region is just amazing. I am a bit disappointed that it took me this long to find it.

I spotted this barn along the side of the road and it just looked so picturesque I had to take a photograph.

This is another example of HDR photography.